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Expert Tips RENO ADDICT

Watch Jen in these 2 weekend paint project video tutorials

Sponsored by Berger Paints

Want to know the cheapest, easiest, quickest, most effective way to transform your home or furniture? Paint! And there’s nothing more satisfying that updating or transforming something yourself. You’d be amazed what you can get done over a weekend. But it’s always best to follow some expert tips to get the best result. A little prep can go a long way so I’ve teamed up with Berger Paints to inspire you and offer a little advice.

These one-minute video tutorials will guide you through two projects, step by step. The first shows you how to transform a piece of timber furniture (in our case, a hall table but you might have a chair, side table or stool that needs a change) and the second, how to make a big impact by painting your floorboards.

Project 1: Upcycling a piece of timber furniture

In this furniture tutorial we used two shades of grey: Storm Chaser and Silver Cup. Berger have a wonderful range of classic neutrals: greys, whites and beiges. The hardest task may be choosing which to go for! By keeping your colours classic, you’ll create a look that will last and won’t date.

Project 2: Painting your floor

I’d never considered using grey on a floor before, but painting your boards a light colour like this creates a bright, contemporary look and may make your space look bigger too. Berger Jet Dry is the perfect durable product for this job.

While I love the transformative effects of paint and find painting very therapeutic, I’ll level with you: I’m no expert! I really recommend you have a watch of these videos to pick up the great tips I learned from our friends at Berger Paints.

Good luck with your projects! We’d love to see the finished results!

Categories
Art Expert Tips

How to create your own easy original artwork

By Hayley Shaw

We live in an era where presenting your home in a modern and contemporary way has never been easier. With more shops pumping out accessories and furnishings at lower prices its easy and affordable to give your home a makeover.

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[contextly_sidebar id=”GJm7eCNALwKwM98Qxzjj2QfXlyS9Fb37″]But there are still certain items which are placed on the significantly higher top shelves, for those wanting original pieces. I’m one of ‘those’ people. If I spot a vase I own on a friend’s hall table, mine will make a quiet retreat to the back of my kitchen cupboard to await the yearly house purge. Petty I know, but I can’t help it. I want to be different!

Amongst the original high-end items are paintings, and although ‘thought provoking’ art is usually worth every cent the artist is asking for, $5,000 for one piece is not going to fit into every budget. This is where creating your own original art can work beautifully. Sure, it’s probably not going to come to life like the works of Vincent van Gogh, Leonardo de Vinci or Bert from Mary Poppins, but just matching it in with the colours of your current decor items can really bring the room together.

I can sense a lot of you groaning so I’ve created a very simple, achievable example with steps, so you really can’t get lost.

Before you start, make sure you’re in ‘the zone’. You might as well enjoy the relaxation of this project so make a little me time. If the following apply, make sure the kids are happily watching a DVD, the pets are fed and watered, your other half is aware that you really need this quiet time to make you a better contributor to the relationship, then set the iPod to play relaxation tracks before putting on a pot of camomile tea. Perfect.

STEP 1 – Firstly, you’re going to need a few tools and supplies. Some of them you will probably already have in your stationery draw. For the example below I used a pencil, masking tape, a ruler, a paint brush, paint and a flat board canvas which measured 46x46cm. This technique, however, could be achieved on any sized canvas board or a canvas which has been stretched over a frame.

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STEP 2 – I’ve chosen to leave a two-inch border around my painting. After measuring and marking the corners two inches in, use your masking tape to create the border and edge for your painting. Then using the ruler again, mark every two inches along the inside of the taped border on all four sides. I just marked it with a dot. Once this is completed you can start laying down your masking tape diagonally, matching each dot with the dot on the adjoining side. Repeat this process again on the reverse diagonal. It should now look something like this:

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STEP 3 – Time to paint. Make sure the masking tape is well and truly stuck. If it starts lifting up the paint will bleed through underneath. Load your paintbrush up with paint and start painting, starting the stroke on the tape then onto the canvas. This also helps to stop the bleeding as you’re not pushing paint against the tape, but over and off it. In my example I’ve used orange, purple and green acrylics.

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STEP 4 – Ta-dah! The big reveal. You can wait until your painting is completely dry before removing the tape but if you’re super eager to see your handy work remove the tape carefully. You don’t want to let any tape fall back onto the canvas as you’re pulling it off. Here’s how mine turned out.

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As you can see on my painting above, there are a few spots where the paint has bled under the tape but once dry it’s an easy fix, just using some white paint to carefully touch it up.

Here are a couple of other paintings I created using the same masking tape idea:

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Now all you need to do is to have it framed and hang it proudly. And the best thing of all? You’ll be hard-pressed finding any friends with the same painting!

–Hayley Shaw is an Australian abstract artist residing in Northern NSW. Her blog and artworks can be viewed on hayleyshaw.com.au

Categories
Bedrooms Expert Tips Kids Rooms

How to: make a children’s teepee for under $30!

Am I the only adult out there to be so excited by teepees? Seriously, where were these when I was a kid?! These days, going by Pinterest and Instagram, teepees are a staple for any nursery or kids room. So it was only a matter of time before we had a DIY go at Interiors Addict!

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Step 1: Pick up Supplies

      Supplies:

  • 4x dowel rods (120cm each)
  • Tablecloth/ fabric (120cm x 365cm)
  • Rope (1 metre)

     Tools:

  • Drill + 6.5mm drill bit
  • Sandpaper
  • Needle
  • Cotton

If you are wanting to make a teepee on the cheap and avoid shelling out on fabric, I raided my grandmother’s linen closet and found a plethora of options. You can really use anything; bed sheets, quilt covers, curtains, the options are endless. In my case, I opted for a lace table cloth number which worked perfectly and eliminated me needing to learn how to sew. I do like a little boho vibe, so lace it was!

Step 2: Drill rope holes

Sand down dowel rods and any rough edges with a piece of sandpaper. Make a small mark on each dowel around 10cm from the top and mark with an x. Carefully drill one hole in each dowel. If you aren’t confident with power tools, ask someone to help you.

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Step 3: Framing

Thread the rope through all the holes (it’s easier if you wrap some sticky tape around the end of the rope to help it fit through the holes). Once the rope is threaded through, tie a knot firmly then wrap the rope around a few more times. Establish equal spacing between the dowels to make your teepee even on all sides. Once you have equal spacing, wrap the rope around a few more times and tie a secure knot.

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Step 4: Sewing!

Drape the fabric around the outside of the structure. Once you’re happy with how it sits, begin sewing. I wrapped the fabric around each pole and sewed up the inside of the pole through the holes already in the lace so you can’t see any of the stitching. Sew up the inside of all four posts to ensure the fabric is secure.

Step 5: Style away

Set up your teepee wherever you chose and get styling! Our friends at Cotton On Kids were kind enough to lend us some of my favourite products from their latest range to help out.

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If DIY isn’t your thing and you’re after a teepee Etsy has your back with a heap of choices.

–Kathryn Bamford is our girl on the ground in Melbourne; you can follow her DIY & design adventures on Instagram @thedesignrookie.

Categories
Art Expert Tips Homewares

Weaving tutorial: create your own wall hanging

When Amanda O’Sullivan shared one of her beautiful woven wall hangings during our 7 Vignettes contest on Instagram earlier this month, she wowed plenty of our readers. So we were delighted when she agreed to put together this great tutorial for us.

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There’s a weaver fever going around right now! If you are excited about weaving being cool again and you’re keen to try making your own woven wonder, you will be happy to hear that it’s not that hard. While it may look complicated, all you need are a few simple techniques under your belt and you’re ready to create your own beautiful wall hangings. Don’t despair if you haven’t got a loom, because you can make your own from an old frame or even a piece of sturdy cardboard. Today, I’m going to share the basic skills you will need to know to create your first wall hanging. Enjoy!

What you’ll need

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  • Lap loom
  • Wide tooth comb
  • Strong cotton for warping
  • Various yarn and fibre for the weft (the weaving threads)
  • A weaving or tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • A stick or rod for hanging.

Step 1: Let’s get warping! Warp is the term used for the strong cotton threads that run up and down vertically on your loom. To start, wrap your cotton around the first tooth and tie it securely in place, then run the thread up to the opposite tooth at the top of the loom. Wrap the cotton around this tooth and then run your thread back down to the bottom of the loom. Continue running the thread up and down until you have reached your desired size. I’ve covered my entire loom with warping thread for this project. Tie another knot firmly around the last tooth. Finally, turn your loom 180 degrees so that the bottom (the end with the knots) now sits at the top of your weave.

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Step 2: Thread your tapestry or weaving needle with yarn and cut off a workable length, as you don’t want to get yourself in a tangle! For larger weaving projects you could use a shuttle; a stick that you can load up with yarn and pass through the warps. I prefer to stick to a needle. The threads that go across are called the weft. Remember to start at the end of the loom without the knots and weave your needle over and under the warp thread until you reach the end, then return back through the warp, alternating over and under. Always leave 2-to-3 inches of tail so that you have enough length to weave in your ends.

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Step 3: When weaving your thread, work a few inches above your previous row, as this will help maintain good tension. Each row of weaving is then pushed down onto the previous row with your wide tooth comb. If you run out of yarn in the middle of a row, simply pull your yarn through to the back, making sure to leave a few inches to stitch in later. Start your new yarn where your last finished and continue.

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Step 4: After 5 or so rows, you may like to add some tassels to your weave. The number of pieces of yarn required for each tassel depends on the thickness of your thread. As my yarn is quite thin, I’ve used 8 pieces for each tassel. If your yarn is thicker, 8-ply or larger, you may only need 3 or 4 pieces. Don’t make your tassels too bulky as they won’t sit nicely. Layer your threads on top of each other and then weave your threads under 2 warps. Lift the threads up through the warp with your finger to create a small loop. Grab both ends of the tassel and thread them through this loop. Lift up and pull to tighten your tassel and then tug down into position.

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Step 5: I’ve placed tassels all along the bottom of my weave. Continue weaving, changing colours as you go.

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Step 6: If you’d like to add shapes or change colours mid loom, simple weave as normal to the point where you’d like the colour to end. Weave in between the threads of the neighbouring colour (see picture) to keep the weave smooth and connected. Continue weaving, changing colours and adding tassels as you please. Make sure you stop weaving at least a couple of inches before you reach the top, as you’ll need some length in your warp to tie knots when you remove your weave from the loom.

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Step 7: Removing your weave from the loom can be a bit scary, but if you follow these instructions, your weave will remain happily intact! Carefully slip your weave off the bottom of the loom — the bottom is where you started weaving, the end without the knots. When the weave is free from the end, push your work gently to the bottom. At the top of the loom, remove the warp from one tooth at a time and cut at the top of the loop, creating 2 threads. Tie these threads together firmly into a knot. Continue removing your warp, one tooth at a time, until all of the threads are knotted. Ta-dah! Your weave is now free.

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Step 8: Tuck these ends into the back of your weave using your needle. Alternatively, you may like to tie these threads onto your stick or bar for hanging.

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Step 9: Now it’s time to tidy up your loose threads at the back of your weave. Simply thread the dangling yarns into your needle and pass them through about 2cm of weave at the back and snip off the ends to tidy up.

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Step 10: How you choose to attach your weave to a hanging mechanism is completely up to you. I’ve loosely stitched mine onto a stick and then attached some string for hanging. Once you’ve attached yours, simply hang and admire!

–Amanda O’Sullivan is country girl with a passion for interiors, craft and design. She is the proud owner of RedAgape Guesthouse in Millthorpe and RedAgape Blog, where she showcases her creative endeavours. We think her Instagram feed is well worth a follow too!

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So, will you give it a go? We’d love to see your efforts on Instagram! Please tag us if you share them!